Day 55 - Walla Walla, WA to Umatilla, OR

Lowden is A tiny hamlet about 10 miles west of Wala Walla that has fallen on hard times for the past many years.

But in the past few years that has all changed And it is continuing to change at a rapid pace. The saying around here is: Buy Your wine in Walla Walla; by ear auto parts in Napa. Grapes are a far more lucrative crap these days than a week and you cannot swing a cat in The Walla Walla area without hitting a vineyard, a winery or a wine tasting room.

Meet Jeremy and his daughter Batman. (don’t call her bat woman. There is an Adam west day in Walla Walla and she knows that he was not a woman.)

Jeremy and bat man live in a house that they rent in Lowden. But they are going to have to move. Their landlord sold the house to a winery that is going to convert it into a wine tasting room.

The Louis and Clark trail guide book and some blogs that I track were Published in 2004 or 2005, when the nation was celebrating the bicentennial of the Lewis and Clark expedition. They make no mention whatsoever of wineries in this region. And this is all happened in the past decade.

They do mention that this is a great onion growing region and that I could expect to find and smell onions on the side of the road. That has not changed.

I am passing into Oregon, The 11th and final state I will pass through on this trip. I also have met up with the Columbia River, the fourth and final river that Lewis and Clark travel upon. This region is known as the scab lands because of rock outcroppings from and otherwise they are in landscape.

Perhaps the biggest floods ever to take place on the planet earth were the floods from the melting of ice on glacial Lake Missoula between 15,000 and 18,000 years ago.That formed what today is known as the Wallula Gap, through which floodwaters raged at speeds of up to 60 mph.

I met a couple from London who are on a four month trip through the United States and Canada. In their research they identified this as one of the top 15 or 20 things that they wanted to see. I for some reason had never heard of this until today.

I have been giving some thought to extending my trip slightly to cycle down the Oregon coast a bit and then loop back to Portland. Today the road crew sent me a message about that.

Speaking of road crews, I didn’t know exactly what to make of this sign, but I did not expect it was good news.

It wasn’t.

A Rest Day in Walla Walla

It was a day of wine and roses for me in Walla Walla.

So what does a touring bicyclist do on a rest day? S/he takes off the panniers, the tent, the bicycling gloves the biking shorts, the cleats (but not the Bicycle helmet ) and takes a bicycle ride around town. 

When in Walla Walla, I did as the Walla Wallans do. I sampled lots of wines. I am not a wine afficianado but they tasted really good to me.

I also visited the beautiful Whitman College campus where I watched members of the men’s tennis team practice. Tennis looks like a fun game. I’d like to try playing it sometime.

Whitman College is a small liberal arts school that is named after Marcus and Narcissa Whitman, who were missionaries near Walla Walla. In 1847 they along with 12 others were killed by Native Americans who believed they were responsible for the deaths of many tribe members in a measles outbreak. It became known as the Whitman Massacre.

I had lunch at a Thai restaurant downtown and rode around the city and nearby Pioneer Park.

I spoke with many Walla Wallans about attractions and history of this town. I learned that Adam West, who played Batman, is from Walla Walla, as is former NFL quarterback Drew Bledsoe.

I closed out the day by doing some laundry, lubricating my chain and making a plan for tomorrow’s ride. 

Day 54 - Pomeroy, WA to Walla Walla, WA

Wella wella I’m in Walla Walla.

This area has a reputation among Sommeliers as a fine  wine region,

and it is surrounded by glorious golden hills.

Having seen nothing but headwinds this entire trip, I was happy to see this sign today.

Today’s yard art winner from Waitsburg, WA

 

The first thing I saw when I crossed the snake River into Washington was two people getting high in the park along the river. This is another topical issue as to which I am Actively seeking a local sentiment.

The people I spoke with from Clarkston, Idaho definitely were opposed to the legalization of marijuana. One woman who worked across the river at the Large regional hospital in Clarkston, Washington. She said they were having a great deal of trouble finding employees because otherwise qualified employees could not pass the drug test.

A person I met in Washington asked if I would like “to partake.” I politely declined as I have hundreds of times over the course of my life. But I am keeping an open mind about this issue.

In the brief time I stop in front of this store, several people my age and some people from the succeeding generations came in and out. It was one of the busiest retail establishments I sought in Dayton, Washington. 

One of my first reactions was that this might be better than having those same people deal surreptitiously with shady drug dealers. It is out in the open and the state is collecting tax revenue.

Day 53- Clarkston, WA to Pomeroy, WA

As soon as the rain stopped this morning, I headed out. T

Two of the other three cyclists who stayed the night decided to take the day off and guard the home of our warm showers host while he was at work. When I left they looked like they were getting pretty comfortable. The third is staying the night with another warm showers host.

The first 8 miles today was a glorious ride along the shores of the snake River just north of Hells Canyon, the deepest canyon in North America.

Then things changed. I don’t know whether I technically was in Hells Canyon, but it sure felt like it as I slowly ascended a steep 12 mile long Hill that was reminiscent of a mountain pass.

I stopped for a rest about halfway up the canyon wall and a motorist came over to ask questions. He offered that he lived   in this area because he doesn’t like people and there aren’t very many people here. Further discussion revealed that The people he didn’t like where the liberals in Seattle and Portland. Not many liberals around here, I gather.

I stayed the night in tiny Pomeroy, WA. It happened to be national night out, which is a big deal in Pomeroy. Everyone came out for the free hamburgers provided by the fire department. I dropped by to mingle with the locals. 

The firemen served me a burger and I took it over to one of the community picnic tables.. The women sitting across from me were chatting away happily and didn’t acknowledge my presence. I gather that year it was super hot at the national night out celebration and there were bees all over. Much nicer tonight!

 There was a band, but they only played one song (which was more than enough for me and, from what I could tell,everyone else!). The rest of the time the bandleader walked around the stage with his guitar strapped around his neck and his microphone in hand making announcements. Somebody lost their keys, Bingo is starting in the pavilion, hamburgers are being served, kids are Welcome to explore the ambulance, fire truck, the Garfield county sheriffs car and boat that have been brought to town for the occasion, it is good to see so many Pomeroy folks out having fun, etc.  There was so much going on that needed announcing that there just wasn’t any time to play music.

As I left the celebration, I noticed a sign that apparently was placed there by the municipality. I have the distinct sense that not much else of any import has happened in Pomeroy in the past 212 years.

But things in Pomeroy are changing. I understand that a group is in town to town to Set up a factory that will convert the stems from harvested wheat into low grade paper products. There is plenty of raw material in this area to spin into gold.

Day 52 - Winchester, Idaho to Clarkston, Washington

Rode through the Nez Perce Reservation in Idaho this morning before crossing the Snake River into Washington near its confluence with the Clearwater River.  After two weeks in canoe camp the corps of Discovery traveled down the Snake and whitewater rivers to theColumbia river.

Lewis recorded his fondness for the Nez Perce in his journal:

In 1831 the Nez Perce sent a delegation to St Louis to meet with Clark, who was then the director of Indian affairs, to explore ways to get the tribe assimilated into the new country. Toward that end, a few years later schools and missions were established in this area. 

In 1877, Nez Perce Chief Joseph, refused to sign a treaty establishing the reservation and the United States cavalry pursued the Nez Perce across Idaho and into Montana. They unsuccessfully sought refuge with the Blackfoot. Eventually the the tribe turned north east of Fort zBenton and crossed theMissouri river at cow island thinking that that marked the United States border with Canada. It did not and chief Joseph surrendered, saying that from where the sun then stood he would fight no more forever. He was imprisoned and many of his his people were sent temporarily to a reservation in Oklahoma.

It was a cool, rainy night here in the twin towns of Lewiston and Clarkston. I arranged to stay with Gregory, a magnificent warm showers host, and was delighted to see that Robert, my new cycling friend from Barcelona, who camped next to me at Wilderness Gate, was also staying here. We had a great evening and it would have been a cold wet night in the tent. (Gregory middle and Robert right)

Day 51 - Kamiah, Idaho to Winchester, Idaho

I am having continental breakfast in The dining area of my inexpensive motel. There are a few sportsmen sitting around the room talking about hunting elk and other big game. I have nothing to add to that conversation.In walks a middle-aged man and woman and they sit down at the table next to me. 

He is not a quiet man. He is an angry man who uses some variant of the F word at least once in almost every sentence. He lives north of Seattle and there are elk on his property all the time. The f’ing Seattle liberals Won’t let him shoot them so he has to come to Idaho to hunt. He Just got married yesterday. I offer congratulations and get almost no acknowledgement . He and his pride are in Idaho to look at hunting properties, outside the reach of those f’ing liberals. His bride says nothing.

I took the incredibly hilly, safer of 2 routes to Lewiston that was recommended by adventure cycling. My cycling friend from Barcelona went on the very flat, more dangerous alternate route through orofino. If I had this to do over again heading westward, I would take my chances with the alternative!

I am now west of the mountain ranges and am back back in gorgeous golden wheatfields.

This is land well outside the scope of the Louisiana purchase, which extended only as far west as the Missouri Rivershed, That being the continental divide. 

When the corps of Discovery arrived in this area exhausted and almost starved from their trip over the better route, They spent two weeks building canoes with the help and expertise of the Nez Perce Indians. The Indians fed the starving young Americans Salmon and roots. The food was so foreign to their systems that they all got terribly sick.

I can’t tonight next to three ladies from Lewiston. They invited me over for dinner and I gladly accepted Since the only restaurant in town was closed for renovation And I am getting tired of eating sardines.

Two of the women were about my age and one was absolutely convinced that as a teenager she had been abducted by Ted Bundy. A guy in a Volkswagen similar to the one he drove picked her up under false pretenses and offered to take her to a party. Instead of taking her to the party he started driving out of town. Realizing she was in serious trouble she reached across and stomped on the brake  pedal, tumbled out of the car and ran into the brush. He ran after her but was unable to find her inThe thick brush and darkness. 

Around that same time the dismembered body of a woman from Lewiston was discovered in the area. The murder was never solved. Ted Bundy did not confess, but is known to have been active in Idaho at the time.

That sure made for a very chilling late night story in a lonely Campground,

Day 50 - Wilderness Gateway Campground, Idaho to Kamiah, Idaho

Today was a spectacular day featuring lovely weather and outstanding scenery on highway 12 along the Clearwater River.

I stopped Along the way for some magnificent huckleberry pie with huckleberry ice cream and for some fresh fruits from Emilio, of WOW fruits.

The road workers are sending me another message About the road ahead.

Day 49 - Powell, Idaho to Wilderness Gateway Campground, Idaho

I am traveling on a gorgeous stretch of U.S. Highway 12 that follows the lovely Lochsa river beneath the mountain ridge that the expedition discovery traveled. Lewisand Clark could not travel along the river because their horses could not cross the gullies of the numerous streams that come down from these mountains.

It is actually safe to drink the water from the streams and many people do.

I took two hikes up  to warm springs today.

I had an interesting experience on the road today. It was reminiscent of the slow speed O.J. Simpson bronco chase. 

A guy in a white SUV passed me traveling at about 50 mph. In close pursuit were four police cars, all with their flashers on. The guy swerved back and forth into the passing lane. But there was absolutely no place to go. Highway 12 runs through the national Forest and is tightly bounded by the mountains on one side and the Lochsa river on the other. 

I later learned from someone on a construction crew that The pursuit ended miles down the road where the road was blocked by construction equipment. The suspect, who I understand was allegedly running drugs,was apprehended Without further incident.

Many of the cedar trees i am seeing are trees that Lewis and Clark would’ve seen. Cedar trees in this area can live up to 3000 years and grow to over 200 feet tall. Many, however, are killed prematurely by forest fires started by lightning strikes, a natural phenomenon that is very common out here.

I camped  tonight with Robert, a fellow cyclist from Barcelona who is doing a tour of the American and Canadian national parks in the Pacific Northwest. A fellow camper, who is also a bicycle enthusiast, invited both of us over to his campsite where he treated us to a spectacular dinner of fresh rainbow trout he had caught.

Day 48 - Missoula, MT to Powell, Idaho

We know a tremendous amount about the expedition discovery from the journals that Lewis, Clark and others kept. The only physical evidence that has been uncovered was at Travelers’ rest in Lolo, Montana, just outside of Missoula. Lewis and Clark camped there for a couple of days starting on September 9, 1805, and again on their return in early July, 1806.

In 1996, archaeologists  discovered at Travelers’ Rest evidence of a latrine dug in the exact location in which military protocol at the time would have required. There they also discovered evidence of mercury, which they believe came from medication that Lewis administered to two privates who are suffering from constipation.

Lewis and Clark made to fateful decisions at traveler’s rest. In 1805 they decided to push through the mountains beginning on September 11. They apparently did not realize how early winter arrives in this region. The mountain peaks seemingly stretched forever, there was little food and a lot of snow, and the corps of discovery almost starved.

In 1806, Lewis and Clark made another questionable decision while at travelers’ rest to divide the Corps of Discovery in order to explore more territory. Lewis and his men went north to explore the Marias river and Clark and his men went South to explore the Yellowstone River. They met up six weeks later in North Dakota. While traveling separately Lewis was shot in the buttocks by one of his own men and killed two young Blackfeet Indians who were trying to steal their horses.

After spending a fair amount of time at Travelers rest, it was up and over beautiful Lolo Pass.

I camped on the grounds of the gorgeous Lochsa Lodge, a big game hunting lodge on the beautiful Lochsa River.

Two Days in Missoula

Missoula is an exceptionally cool town. The kind a town that makes you want to stay a while. I stayed for two days. 

Like most touring cyclists, my first stop was at the headquarters of Adventure Cycling, a fabulous organization that produces incredibly detailed and accurate maps for cyclists covering many trails throughout the night states in parts of Canada.  It also organizes and supports all kinds of group bicycle tours. It is a non-profit organization that employees 40 people who are passionate about cycling.

They are housed in a building that is a converted Christian Science church. They take a Polaroid picture of every touring cyclist who visits and places it on their wall of fame.

I also rode and walked Around Missoula, including a hike up to the “M” on a mountain that overlooks the campus of the University of Montana and the city.

I stayed for two nights in a bunk room in a wonderful 

Hostel located one block away from adventure cycling in the center of downtown Missoula. There I met many really nice people with whom I dined and explored the city.

If you know me you will not be surprised that I attended the Missoula Ospreys minor league baseball game in their gorgeous stadium.

Cowboys and Bureacrats

In Lewistown I camped next to a guy who had worked for ten years for the Bureau of Land Management. He was part of a team whose job it was to determine what land satisfies the criteria for being designated as a "Wilderness Area" under the Wilderness Act of 1964. The idea is that wilderness areas should be preserved and protected.  If a parcel of land is so designated it becomes the property of the Federal government without compensation to the prior landowner, but a rancher can still apply for a grazing permit so that he can continue to use the property on his ranch.

My fellow camper told me of a meeting he and his colleagues had with area ranchers to discuss the criteria for designating property as a wilderness area and involving them in decisions. Five minutes into the meeting a rancher who happened also to be a state court judge stood up and interrupted. Young man, he said in a menacing tone, if you want solitude I have a jail cell just for you. The ranchers all stood up and applauded. With that the meeting abruptly concluded.

The second largest wilderness area in the continental United States is near Lincoln and extends northward almost to Glacier National Park. It is home to many grizzlies (who I am told are becoming so common in this area that they may soon be taken off the list of endangered species) and a wide variety of other wildlife, including even some wolverines (Go Blue!).

In response to the question of how much wilderness area America needs, early 20th century conservationist Bob Marshall, who fought to have much of this land protected, famously replied, "How many Brahms symphonies do we need?"

One person who did not subscribe to Bob Marshall's view was James Watt, a Wyoming native who served as Secretary of the Interior in the Reagan Administration. My campground neighbor told me that he and his colleagues did fieldwork for months to come up with a comprehensive description of a huge amount of Montana ranch land and delivered the report to Washington. Without ever looking at the report, Watt announced publicly that not one acre of land would be designated as wilderness area.

East of Missoula, it is hard to find a Montanan who does not believe that the Federal Government is too big, too intrusive and not to be trusted.

The activities of the Bureau of Land Management contribute greatly to this perception. Someone I met in Lincoln told me that the Federal Government is continually closing off access to private roads in wilderness areas.

He said it is common for local sportsmen to rip out locked fences blocking these roads so that they can gain access to hunting and fishing areas not designated for public use. He added that there have been times when firefighters needed access to these roads to fight forest and grass fires and the government was unable to find anyone with keys to unlock the gates.


In Great Falls, I ran into two of our founding fathers, George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. A quote in the plaque for Washington is reflective of the attitude of most Montanans I have met: 

“Government is not reason; it is not eloquent; it is a force. Like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master.”

The relationship between ranchers and the federal government is complicated by the fact that most ranchers grow wheat or other grains on a portion of their property. Many participate in the FSA’s Conservation Protection Program under which they are paid “rent” in exchange for not planting in environmentally sensitive areas.

As one guy told me that farming in Montans is all about negotiating with the government these days.

Day 47 - Lincoln, MT to Missoula, MT

I enjoyed a beautiful ride down the mountain today to the town of Missoula Montana, the headquarters of adventure cycling and hence the Mecca of touring cyclists throughout the United States.

My route closely followed the Blackfoot River and is said to be in a region that is heavily populated by grizzly and black bears. I met a touring cyclist coming in the opposite direction who told me that just yesterday he had encountered a black bear only about 50 feet away in the ditch on the side of the road. The bear stopped and looked at him for a moment before crossing the road in front of him. He had his bear spray out and ready to use if necessary. It was the second time he had encountered a bear this week! 

Fortunately, I had no such excitement. The photograph below is from the national forest service’s grizzly bear exhibit near Lincoln.

Lewis and Clark experienced all kinds of difficulties getting through the Rocky Mountains and Bitterroot Mountains on their way to the Pacific ocean. Upon seeing the Rockies they realized that Jeffersons dream of a navigable waterway to the ocean would not be realized. At the foot of the Rocky mountains they met with the Shoshone Indians. Sacagawea, Who had been kidnapped bu the Shoshones by the Hidatsas twhen she was 11, was reunited with her brother, who had become the chief of the Shoshone tribe.  that connection, along with her translation ability, helped Lewis and Clark obtain horses and a guide to help them over the mountains. 

It was a treacherous journey. They got caught in a heavy snowstorm and The corps of discovery almost starved to death. They ended up having to eat a couple of The horses in order to survive.

The  trail I am following tracks the route that Lewis and A subdivision of the coros of discovery took on their return trip across the Rockies.